Aquarium fish feeding basics

Overfeeding is the leading cause of fish death in the first year of fishkeeping. The paradox: fish handle underfeeding well (up to a week of fasting is safe), but they handle excess food poorly.

The basic rule

Give only as much food as the fish can finish in 2–3 minutes, with nothing left on the bottom. If anything is left — give less next time.

Feeding frequency

• Adult fish — 1–2 times a day, small portions.

• Juveniles and fry — 3–4 times a day.

• Predators (large cichlids, bichirs) — 2–3 times a week, generously.

• One day a week — a "fast day." Helps digestion, especially for bettas and labyrinth fish.

Food types

Dry food

Flakes (float on the surface — for top-dwelling fish) and pellets (sink — for mid and bottom). Choose quality brands (Tetra, JBL, Hikari) — cheap foods are loaded with protein fillers and bulkers.

Frozen food

Bloodworms, brine shrimp, daphnia, cyclops — sold in blister packs. Thaw in a cup of water, drain, then feed. Frozen food is parasite-safe.

Live food

Enchytraeids, live daphnia, live brine shrimp nauplii. Don't buy market-sold tubifex — it's a vector for parasites and pathogens. Safe option: hatch brine shrimp in a jar in 24 hours.

Plant-based food

Spirulina tablets, blanched zucchini/cucumber/spinach, specialized spirulina flakes. Mandatory for plecos, otocinclus, mystery snails, and most omnivorous fish (guppies, mollies).

What to feed whom

• Carnivores (betta, angelfish, cichlids): 70 % protein food, 30 % plant.

• Omnivores (guppies, mollies, rasboras): 50 % / 50 %.

• Herbivores (plecos, otocinclus): 80 % plant, 20 % protein once a week.

What to avoid

• Bread, biscuits, boiled potato — pulp in the water, rot.

• Raw mammal meat — unnatural protein, fish obesity.

• Overfeeding "just in case" — fish don't store fat for winter.

• The same food every day — variety = health.

Better to fast the tank once a week than to overeat every day. Most aquarium-fish "diseases" are just overfeeding plus accumulated nitrates.